I'm working here with almost-new stuff. We have a Linksys BEFW11S2 V.2 wireless router about six months old, and an HP-Compaq Presario SR1563CL computer, about the same vintage. The wireless seemed to work all right before the computer, when I and others used it for our laptops. But now, with the computer, the connection occasionally (and by occasionally I mean within an hour of non-use) dies. The wireless software widget on the computer claims to see a strong signal, but it cannot connect using the software. The only way to get it working again is to both reset the router, and to hit a hardware "Connect" button on the computer keyboard, that does I have no idea what, except that when we go through these rituals, the connection comes back up (though the wireless widget may continue to say that it can't make a connection).

Is anyone familiar with either or both of these de-vices, and able to divine what the heck is going on? It's obviously majorly irritating.

Are you using the Windows wireless connection tool, or the one that's specific to the wireless that's built in to the Compaq? I had troubles all the time with my laptop attempting to use Windows Connection tools, and switched over to the Dell-specific tools.

Did the router get re-set and have a timeout value changed?

If the issue is only with that particular laptop, then it's probably a driver issue. If it's with the router itself, then there might be a MAC address conflict in the area, or you're too close to a "budding young computer entrepreneur".

I get tons of calls about wireless that has flaked out. I also commonly see where windows indicates that it is associated and displays the SSID name with signal strength but will not transmit meaningful data. From a client computer perspective you will want to check the properties for you preferred network. Go into Start > Control > network connection > right click the wireless adapter under the lan or hispeed internet section > left click properties > go to the wireless networks tab > select your preferred network > click properties > Go to the authentication tab > Make sure that Enable IEEE 802.1x authentication for this network is enabled and EAP type is Smart card or other cert. > Also make sure that Authenticate as computer when computer information is available is checked.

Since you say several computers go offline at the same time this leads me to believe that its most likely your router. I would completely unplug the router for several minutes, like maybe 5 minutes. This will purge out all the memory and when powered back on will be restored with a completely fresh image from the firmware. I've talked with engineers and they admit that with the purity of silicon that is used now days that volatile memory will maintain values for several minutes beyond spec.

The next step would be to actually do a hard reset on the device to restore the settings back to factory defaults. Make sure you know your PPOE login credentials and appropriate ISP settings. Don't worry about the current WEP keys your using since the router with regenerate a new set of keys upon setup. There is a small hole on the front panel that requires a paper clip to be inserted and depress a small button. After holding the button down for 10 seconds you should see all the lights on the front of the device flash on and off. Follow this up with another power off the of the device for several minutes and then power back on. You will need to go through and reconfigure the device all over again just like you pulled it out of the box brand new. Under the setup tab set broadband according to ISP requirements, Enable wireless, specify an SSID, Set WEP mandatory and provide a passphrase, and then copy the WEP key into your wireless networks tab. I think I read that you like to WPA also for security. Too bad that can be broken just as easily as WEP if someone really wants to get in. Me personally I don't even set a WEP key and use a cut out shell of a Pringles can to set a physical parition to the outside world. Between the aluminum in the can and the brick wall around my house they'd have to be standing right next to the wall to get a decent signal and if they're that close they could just tap into a land line or say hello to my Sig P229.

The last thing to try would be to try and install the latest firmware provided by linksys. I think you typo'ed your router model number. I believe your model should be BEFW11S4 v.2 not s2. Go to the linksys site for latest firmware download. The firware update will default to the 192.168.1.1 router gateway address and you then provide your router admin password and away it goes.

If several computers suddenly lose connectivity all at once then I believe that the router is causing the issue. The fact that it happens within an hour timeframe sounds like a power management setting gone awry. I wouldn't be suprised if after a period of inactivity the radio will stop actively squelching. But once it gets a 'are you there?' query then it should wake up and start to respond. It could just be that the router is not hearing the 'are you there?' question because of interference from other devices nearby. Or it could just be the firware is junked up and not behaving.

At any rate the cheaper linksys and dlink routers are by no means rock solid stable. Power cycling the router a couple of times a month is not unheard of. But the frequency you mention indicates an issue somewhere. 2wire makes some higher end routers that are awesome but the downside is their power is so high that everyone on your street block will see your access point. Cisco makes some truly uber routers that will cost you an arm and a leg. At any rate, good luck.

Well, this isn't my router, so there is no security enabled. It's pretty much the out-of-the-box setup right now, other than the ISP settings.

I'll try killing power for a few minutes.

Oh, and the router apparently doesn't even support WPA.

EAP type is Smart card or other cert. Also make sure that Authenticate as computer when computer information is available is checked.

Under Windows XP, I see neither of these options.

The last thing to try would be to try and install the latest firmware provided by linksys.

Why would this be the last thing I try? If there's a firmware update, shouldn't I update it?

And yes, it is a 4, not a 2.

If the wireless software is available, try re-installing it. I have had some problems installing HP products that were cured by re-installing the OS with the HP product in residence.

Rich

Make sure none of the power saving features are enabled on the computer. If windows is allowed to cut off power for the device when not in use that could be the problem.

This sounds like a windows XP thing. It started happening with SP2. Window shuts off the connection after 10 minutes or so.

Workarounds
1) Use the Linksys connection tools.

OR

2) If you must use windows connection tools, once your computer has connected, uncheck "use windows to manage my connection". You will stay connected until next time. If you need to reconnected, check what you have unchecked until connected, then uncheck the checkbox.

I wasn’t aware that this wasn’t your personal router sorry about that.

The power management settings for the wireless adapter can be found by going into Start > control panel > network connections > right click the wireless adapter and left click properties > under the general there is a field that says "Connect using" and then lists the driver for the network adapter> click the configure button > if you have a power management tab then remove check mark from option to allow windows to turn off this device > if you don't have a power management tab then look under 'Advanced' tab and look down the list of properties for power management and set to either disable, CAM (constantly awake mode), or performance vs. battery life -- just depends on which adapter you have. Click okay out of all the windows till your back at network connection window.

Another setting that will periodically knock you off a network that you are currently connected to is any option in your wireless management utility that tells the adapter to periodically scan for better networks or available network. It is usually best to disable any of these options if you come across them in your wireless utility.

I just realized that if you’re pressing a button on the laptop itself then you’re probably using a wireless management utility provided by the manufacturer. Also, the fact that you couldn’t find the authentication tab tells me that the MS Wireless Zero Configuration service isn’t running. This is where it gets tricky because some wireless utilities work in tandem with the Microsoft Wireless Zero Configuration service (the wireless networks tab) while others just replace it entirely with their own wireless configuration service. Generally the best rule of thumb is to only use one management utility. If you try to use both then they tend to butt heads and constantly knock you off as they wrestle control from each other. Here is a technet article from MS about configuring the WZC service.

http://support.micro$oft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;Q313242

Sometimes the authentication tab is directly under the properties for your wireless adapter. Sometimes it is stuffed into the properties for the preferred network. Not sure what defines that behavior but I’m guessing it is most likely related to the device driver and whether is fully supports the WZC service. Usually when I see an adapter associate but refuse to send meaningful data to the access point it is because of a security setting that is not appropriate for your network. Different wireless configuration utilities provide different security settings so one utility may work better over other utilities for a given network. In one instance the utility that came with your laptop will work best, in other situations the MS WZC server may work best.

Microsoft has a wireless hotfix blunderbuss rollout that will address some of the wireless issues they are aware off.

http://support.micro$oft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;EN-US;826942

I usually like to hold off on firmware updates unless the manufacturer’s white sheet lists a known issue or bug that you are actively experiencing. The firmware that came with the device out of the box should work as intended. But sometimes the firmware on the device becomes corrupt and just needs to be re-imaged. It is like updating the BIOS on your computer. As long as you get the update that is appropriate for your model then most likely everything will update no problem. But there is always that marginal chance that something may happen while updating the hardware that turns it into a fancy paper weight or boat anchor.

Home wireless issues are by far my most dreaded. It is not uncommon for it to turn into an hour to 2 hour long phone call trying out all the different possibilities until it starts to work correctly. Wireless issues are one of those things that when it works it generally works fine but when it breaks then we have to break out the can opener to start detangling the worms.