I use to live in Jacksonville FL, and I used to love watching guys while they surfed. I can remember a few days where there were 6 or 7 foot waves. When I see a guy, deep in a big tube I just always wonder what that must be like.
It’s gotta be damned awesome.
The flip side is those crazy dudes that ride those big waves. Nutty, crazy, outrageous.
The ride must be a thrill, but it never ends well… Kinda like life.
Might be lovely photos, but after I got hit with a storm of about 100 cookie requests (or more) and they locked up my Firefox due to the huge number of windows clamoring for me to okay them, I killed Firefox, removed the NatGeo tab before it was able to restart and swore that it will be a very long time before I return to such an incredibly abusive website again.
A friend who surfs here in Florida told the story of a visit to some island in the Pacific with bigger waves. He said he stood on the beach with his board and watched the waves come in. As each wave crashed, the ground shook like a freight train was going by. Terrified, he never even got in the water.
Relevant: http://youtu.be/tqC3BjIyq_0
I use to live in Jacksonville FL, and I used to love watching guys while they surfed. I can remember a few days where there were 6 or 7 foot waves. When I see a guy, deep in a big tube I just always wonder what that must be like.
It’s gotta be damned awesome.
The flip side is those crazy dudes that ride those big waves. Nutty, crazy, outrageous.
Check it out:
A large wave at Teahupo’o
The ride must be a thrill, but it never ends well… Kinda like life.
Might be lovely photos, but after I got hit with a storm of about 100 cookie requests (or more) and they locked up my Firefox due to the huge number of windows clamoring for me to okay them, I killed Firefox, removed the NatGeo tab before it was able to restart and swore that it will be a very long time before I return to such an incredibly abusive website again.
A friend who surfs here in Florida told the story of a visit to some island in the Pacific with bigger waves. He said he stood on the beach with his board and watched the waves come in. As each wave crashed, the ground shook like a freight train was going by. Terrified, he never even got in the water.